by Linda Carloni, ABG Board member and Master Gardener
Fruit trees are a valuable part of the food garden, and many fruit trees grow well in Alameda. Fruit trees can be planted in fall, winter or spring (summer is tricky because new trees need to be kept well-watered the first summer), but only in winter can you find bare root trees.
Back in the day, bare root fruit trees were the only way to purchase and plant fruit trees, according to Jeff Bridge, manager of Ploughshares Nursery on Alameda Point. Transportation was much more expensive, and the soil and cans used for potted trees were heavy, making shipping very expensive. So, growers and nurseries began using bare root trees, shipped in winter when the trees were dormant.
Bare root trees can be as little as half the price of potted trees, a compelling reason to consider them. But Jeff cautions that they are a bit more risky. It’s critical that the trees be planted as soon as possible when brought home and the roots be kept wrapped in damp burlap until planting. Because our winters can be unexpectedly warm, trees may unexpectedly break dormancy before planting. If the tree puts out new roots prior to being planted, those fragile new roots may be broken or damaged during planting, which can set the tree’s development back or even prevent it from thriving. Bare root trees are available in nurseries that carry them starting in January.
Fruit trees should be planted where they receive at least 6 hours a day of full sun in the growing season, and are out of the wind. Fruit trees need regular watering, so access to water for irrigation is important as well.
The planting hole should be wider than the root mass when the roots are spread out. The hole needs to be deep enough so you can create a firm flat-top cone of soil on which to put the tree, leaving the graft union 2 to 4 inches above the soil. (The graft union is where the rootstock is grafted onto the trunk of the fruit-producing wood.) The soil mound should have sloping sides. Disentangle the roots gently, trim any broken, twisted or circling roots, and spread the roots over the sides of the cone. The sides of the hole should be rough, so the roots don’t grow in a circle within the hole.
Gradually fill the hole back in with the soil you dug out, tamping gently to make sure that you don’t have air pockets. Don’t let your tree sink down into the hole – build up the mound more if needed to prevent this. The goal is to have the original soil line 1 to 2 inches above the ground and the graft union 2 to 4 inches above the ground.
Don’t put chemical or conventional fertilizer into the planting hole as it’s important to encourage the tree roots to grow out of the planting hole. If you have loose sandy soil, you can sprinkle a small amount of worm castings or compost into the hole. Mulches, compost and other organic matter will also serve the tree well when applied to the soil surface around the tree after planting, taking care to leave a few inches of bare soil right at the base of the trunk.
Always water your fruit tree after planting and make sure it stays moist through the first summer. After planting, trim the tree to 2 or 3 feet high, to encourage low branch growth, easier fruit access and earlier maturity. Enjoy the fruit as your tree grows up!
Find more information on fruit tree care here: